{"id":1356,"date":"2021-06-16T10:48:23","date_gmt":"2021-06-16T08:48:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/?p=1356"},"modified":"2021-06-30T14:06:59","modified_gmt":"2021-06-30T12:06:59","slug":"spara-za-odmenu-po-vlastnom","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/?p=1356","title":{"rendered":"\u0160p\u00e1ra za odmenu – po vlastnom"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

6.6.2021 Jozef Nov\u00e1k a Peter Mn\u00edch – Meden\u00e9 H\u00e1mre \u2013 \u201e\u0160p\u00e1ra za odmenu\u201c VI+ UIAA<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Okolo 14:30 sme zaparkovali na meden\u00fdch h\u00e1mroch a vybrali sa pod skaln\u00fa stenu v\u013eavo od \u017eelezn\u00e9ho sektoru.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Poriadne sme si to prezreli zo v\u0161etk\u00fdch uhlov a zv\u00e1\u017eili, ak\u00fd materi\u00e1l si do steny vzia\u0165. Vr\u00e1tili sme sa k autu a vytriedili materi\u00e1l. V\u00fdsledok bol, \u017ee som na seba nave\u0161al v\u0161etko \u010do som na\u0161iel. Bola to celkom slu\u0161n\u00e1 v\u00e1ha.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Do steny sme sa rozhodli vzia\u0165 70m jednoduch\u00e9 lano simond rock+ 10mm. Vr\u00e1tili sme sa pod stenu, kde som sa nadviazal a vybrali sme bezpe\u010dn\u00e9 stanovi\u0161te pre isti\u010da. Naliezol som do steny cez rozsypan\u00fa stienku na policu asi dva metre, potom asi dva a pol metra na balk\u00f3nik. Z balk\u00f3niku leziem dva metre priamo hore po rozpadnutej stienke pod plat\u0148u. Zat\u013akam skobu, ktor\u00e1 mi tvor\u00ed prv\u00e9 istenie. (skobu sme tam nechali ako orienta\u010dn\u00fd bod). V platni \u013eahko postupujem po v\u00fdrazn\u00fdch puklin\u00e1ch a\u017e do madiel, kde si zaklad\u00e1m istenie. \u010ealej leziem priamo hore, kde sa cvak\u00e1m do skoby, ktor\u00e1 zachytila ne\u0161\u0165astn\u00fd pokus o prelez inej dvojice. Skoba je vidite\u013ene ohnut\u00e1 a \u010diasto\u010dne vytiahnut\u00e1 z pukliny. K\u00fasok vy\u0161\u0161ie v\u013eavo si zaklad\u00e1m svoj abalak. Nad sebou vid\u00edm probl\u00e9mov\u00fa pas\u00e1\u017e ktor\u00e1 ukon\u010dila tej predo\u0161lej dvojke pokus o prelez. St\u00e1le je v tom dos\u0165 vo\u013en\u00fdch kame\u0148ov. Prezer\u00e1m a pl\u00e1nujem. Vid\u00edm \u017ee mus\u00edm vynecha\u0165 najlep\u0161ie chyty, lebo vyzeraj\u00fa \u017ee s\u00fa uvo\u013enen\u00e9 a nechcem ich zhodi\u0165 na Pe\u0165a. Naliezam a je to v\u00fd\u017eivn\u00e9. Asi po dvoch metroch zis\u0165ujem \u017ee priamo to nep\u00f4jde a mus\u00edm sa vyhn\u00fa\u0165 vo\u013en\u00fdm kame\u0148om, ktor\u00e9 sedia na hrane police priamo nadomnou. Do uzu\u010dkej pukliny som zatla\u010dil \u0161pi\u010dku skoby python 3-L7, vytiahol kladivo a zat\u013akal ju tam ako o \u017eivot. Cvakol som sa a hne\u010f som bol o dos\u0165 k\u013eudnej\u0161\u00ed. Zvolil som traverz vpravo asi \u0161tyri metre. Dostal som sa na dobr\u00fa policu a zalo\u017eil \u0161tand z dvoch friendov a abalaku. \u0160tand je vo v\u00fd\u0161ke asi 25 meteov, tak som dos\u0165 dlho kufroval lano.
Pe\u0165o sa za mnou na druhom konci dostal pomerne r\u00fdchlo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Na \u0161tande sme prebrali \u010fal\u0161\u00ed postup a urobili ne\u00faspe\u0161n\u00fd pokus o zatl\u010denie skoby do holeho k\u00fata. Tu bolo probl\u00e9mov\u00e9 \u017ee ma pri odleze \u010dakal asi 4 metre dlh\u00fd k\u00fat bez mo\u017enosti zalo\u017eenia s potenci\u00e1lnym p\u00e1dom do \u0161tandu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Chv\u00ed\u013eku sme tam \u0161pekulovali a potom som Pe\u0165a ubezpe\u010dil \u017ee to preleziem. Zapol som si lezky, namad\u017eoval a vyliezol do toho. E\u0161te som v tom ani nebol a u\u017e ma otvorilo a skoro som zletel. Podarilo sa mi to dosta\u0165 pod kontrolu a preliezol som to na balk\u00f3n, kde som si zat\u013akol tutov\u00fa skobu. V par\u00e1dnej pukline som sa pre\u0161iel kr\u00e1tkym z\u00e1klonom na policu a odtial vpravo na pekn\u00fa plat\u0148u. V jej \u00favode som bachol jednu skobku a pekne som sa v nej pre\u0161iel. Ten dolez je par \u0161trkov\u00fdch balk\u00f3nikov a police. Na konci \u010dak\u00e1 \u0161irok\u00e1 a p\u00e1r metrov dlh\u00e1 „\u0161p\u00e1ra za odmenu“. Druh\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka m\u00f4\u017ee ma\u0165 asi 35 metrov. Hore som urobil \u0161tand o strom a dobral Pe\u0165a, ktor\u00fd si tie\u017e ten prelez patri\u010dne u\u017eil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Zlanili sme a ja som sa tam vr\u00e1til nav\u0155ta\u0165 \u0161tandy a zhodi\u0165 niektor\u00e9 probl\u00e9mov\u00e9 vo\u013en\u00e9 kamene.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Tento prelez bol ka\u017edop\u00e1dne prvotriednym lezeck\u00fdm z\u00e1\u017eitkom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
rhdr<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ak by sa to niekto rozhodol \u00eds\u0165 liez\u0165, treba d\u00e1va\u0165 sakramensk\u00fd pozor na padaj\u00face kamene !!!<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

bez srandy<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jozef<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

6.6.2021 Jozef Nov\u00e1k a Peter Mn\u00edch – Meden\u00e9 H\u00e1mre \u2013 \u201e\u0160p\u00e1ra za odmenu\u201c VI+ UIAA Okolo 14:30 sme zaparkovali na meden\u00fdch h\u00e1mroch a vybrali sa pod skaln\u00fa stenu v\u013eavo od \u017eelezn\u00e9ho sektoru. Poriadne sme si to prezreli zo v\u0161etk\u00fdch uhlov a zv\u00e1\u017eili, ak\u00fd materi\u00e1l si do steny vzia\u0165. Vr\u00e1tili sme sa k autu a vytriedili … Pokra\u010dova\u0165 na \u0160p\u00e1ra za odmenu – po vlastnom<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1356","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-novinky"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1356","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1356"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1356\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1432,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1356\/revisions\/1432"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1356"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1356"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1356"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}