{"id":691,"date":"2015-09-21T19:26:37","date_gmt":"2015-09-21T17:26:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/?p=691"},"modified":"2015-09-26T00:18:58","modified_gmt":"2015-09-25T22:18:58","slug":"arnstein-na-tretiu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/?p=691","title":{"rendered":"Arnstein na tretiu"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Ke\u010f som asi pred rokom a pol zav\u00edtal prv\u00fdkr\u00e1t (zatia\u013e aj posledn\u00fd) do rak\u00faskeho Semmeringu ala Adlidzgraben-u a nesk\u00f4r aj Hohkogel-u na Hohe Wand-e, bol som o\u010daren\u00fd mno\u017estvom ciest a \u0161pecifikami v\u00e1penca. To ma motivovalo ku k\u00fape sprievodcu okolia Viedne \u2013 Keltenkalk 3 (r\u00e1d po\u017ei\u010diam). Toto rozhodnutie v\u00fdrazne ovplyvnilo moje lezeck\u00e9 po\u010diny za posledn\u00fd rok.<br \/>\nKe\u010f u\u017e si raz \u010dlovek k\u00fapi dialni\u010dn\u00fa zn\u00e1mku u na\u0161ich z\u00e1padn\u00fdch susedov, rad\u0161ej treba voli\u0165 2-mesa\u010dn\u00fd variant, lebo aspo\u0148 \u010dlovek \u010do to pocestuje a spozn\u00e1 krajinu. Za posledn\u00fd rok sme tak spravili u\u017e trikr\u00e1t. Navy\u0161e ke\u010f\u017ee Adam (syn \u2013 moment\u00e1lne 6 mesiacov) n\u00e1m nepovoluje podnika\u0165 dlh\u0161ie pe\u0161ie t\u00fary za skalami sme odk\u00e1zan\u00ed na auto- oblasti (vzdialenos\u0165 skaly od parkoviska do 50m) typu Skalka pri Tren\u010d\u00edne, Beckov a Kalv\u00e1ria v Nitre. Leto im nane\u0161tastie nie v\u017edy praje, lebo napr\u00edklad po chv\u00ed\u013ekovom lezen\u00ed v Nitre by zo m\u0148a riadne lialo, ale \u010do je hor\u0161ie, z Adama by ostali asi len grilovan\u00e9 stehienka. Raz ve\u010der pred v\u00edkendom som teda zalovil do poli\u010dky so sprievodcami a vytiahol som u\u017e spom\u00ednan\u00fd k\u00fasok, ktor\u00fd dokumentuje oblasti tro\u0161ku vy\u0161\u0161ie proti toku Dunaja.<br \/>\nKrit\u00e9ri\u00e1 som volil rovnako. Oblas\u0165 mus\u00ed by\u0165 baby-friendly, cesta autom nesmie presahova\u0165 hodinu a 15 min\u00fat, lebo viac Adam vo vajci v aute nevydr\u017e\u00ed, pr\u00edstupnos\u0165 aj s ko\u010d\u00edkom a preferujeme lezenie aj pre Katku a aj pre m\u0148a (najlep\u0161ie ak m\u00e1 cesta obtia\u017enosti 5 a 9 rovnak\u00fd zla\u0148\u00e1k). \u010cuduj sa svete, a predsa sme tak\u00e9 na\u0161li! A to nie jednu, ale hne\u010f nieko\u013eko. Za\u010dali sme najm\u00e4 v Efeugrad-e (meste\u010dko Modling), kde maj\u00fa lezci k dispoz\u00edcii dom\u010dek v ktorom je um\u00fdvadlo a splachovacie WC. Pokra\u010dovali sme Badenom, kde sme dostali riadne na hubu od miestnej tvrdej obtia\u017enosti a dostali sme sa a\u017e do okolia Peilsteinu, kde sa nach\u00e1dza aj spom\u00ednan\u00fd Arnstein.<br \/>\nOblas\u0165 nie \u00faplne sp\u013a\u0148a v\u0161etky na\u0161e po\u017eiadavky a tak p\u00f4vodne m\u00f4jmu hlad\u00e1\u010diku unikala, no ke\u010f sa u\u017e pomaly vy\u010derp\u00e1val potenci\u00e1l ostatn\u00fdch oblast\u00ed dostali sme sa aj sem, aj ke\u010f viac menej n\u00e1hodou. Od vtedy sme tu boli u\u017e 3 kr\u00e1t a ur\u010dite sa e\u0161te vr\u00e1time.<\/p>\n<h5>Pokus \u010d\u00edslo 1<\/h5>\n<p>Predpove\u010f po\u010dasia hl\u00e1sila u\u017e t\u00fd\u017ede\u0148 36 stup\u0148ov, tak mi bolo jasn\u00e9, \u017ee toto je po\u010dasie je sk\u00f4r na k\u00fapanie ako na lezenie, ale ke\u010f\u017ee aj jazer\u00e1 u\u017e boli tepl\u00e9 ako polievka, tak sme predsa len vyrazili do Rak\u00faska. P\u00f4vodn\u00fd pl\u00e1n bol prejs\u0165 sa lesom v okol\u00ed Peilstein Hutte a presk\u00fama\u0165 lezeck\u00fd potenci\u00e1l dan\u00e9ho kraja. V bl\u00edzkosti parkoviska sa nach\u00e1dzala 2-kr\u00e1t baby friendly oblas\u0165, tak pre\u010do nie&#8230; Jednozna\u010dn\u00e1 vo\u013eba bol mali\u010dk\u00fd Holzschlag, lebo pon\u00fakal kr\u00e1tke cesty, bol oto\u010den\u00fd na sever a navy\u0161e v lese. Mo\u017eno by sa tam predsa len dalo poliez\u0165 aj v t\u00fdch hor\u00fa\u010dav\u00e1ch&#8230; Vyst\u00fapim z auta a utek\u00e1m to skontrolova\u0165 k\u00fdm si Adam labu\u017e\u00ed na mlie\u010dku po dlhej ceste. To \u017ee to nebude ono som tu\u0161il u\u017e po p\u00e1r 10tkach metrov ke\u010f som na\u0161iel ten spr\u00e1vny chodn\u00edk. Su\u0165ovisko strm\u0161ie ako Tatransk\u00e9 \u017e\u013eaby. No na ko\u010d\u00edk to nebude. Podar\u00ed sa mi vydriapa\u0165 hore, no dostal som dal\u0161iu ranu pod p\u00e1s. Nech h\u013ead\u00e1m ako h\u013ead\u00e1m, \u017eiadne bezpe\u010dn\u00e9 miesto pre mal\u00e9 die\u0165a nenach\u00e1dzam. B\u00e1l by som sa tu pusti\u0165 z o\u010d\u00ed aj prv\u00e1ka (horn\u00e9 sektory na H\u00e1mroch s\u00fa oproti tomu vzor bezpe\u010dnosti). <label style=\"float: left; margin: 1px 10px 1px 0px;\"><a data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-bGlndGhib3g=\" data-rl_title=\"\" data-rl_caption=\"\" href=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh1.png\" title=\"\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh1.png\" width=\"300\"\/><\/a><\/label>No sem dnes asi nep\u00f4jdeme. T\u00fdm p\u00e1dom n\u00e1m ost\u00e1va sk\u00f4r prech\u00e1dzkov\u00e1 alternat\u00edva, no nevzd\u00e1vam to a ver\u00edm&#8230; Ke\u010f\u017ee som Katke s\u013e\u00fabil, \u017ee si m\u00f4\u017ee \u00eds\u0165 zabeha\u0165, ost\u00e1vam na objavovanie s Adamom s\u00e1m. Teda nie tak \u00faplne. M\u00e1m na starosti ko\u010d\u00edk, bouldermatku, lano, lezeck\u00e9 batohy, prilby, jedlo, vodu na pitie a na um\u00fdvanie r\u00fak kv\u00f4li Adamovi, asi 20 kilo vec\u00ed r\u00f4zneho ur\u010denia, ktor\u00e9 som sa podujal lesom prepravi\u0165 asi do 20 min\u00fat vzdialen\u00e9ho sektora, o ktorom som vedel iba to, \u017ee poobede tam svieti slnko. \u0160koda, \u017ee hodinky ukazovali poludnie.<br \/>\nCesta bola strastipln\u00e1 a prizn\u00e1vam, \u017ee som to prep\u00edskol a tak som ostal \u010daka\u0165 na Katku asi 100 metrov pred cie\u013eom, lebo na tie som si v\u00e1\u017ene s ko\u010d\u00edkom netr\u00fafal a prepravova\u0165 veci po \u010dastiach mi napadlo pr\u00edli\u0161 neskoro. Nakoniec sa n\u00e1m to v\u0161ak podarilo, aj ke\u010f Rak\u00fa\u0161ania, na n\u00e1s teda pozerali ako na zjavenie (a aj my na nich, ked vytiahli laserov\u00e9 ukazov\u00e1tko na chyty, a teleskopick\u00e9 palice na cvakanie expresov, respekt\u00edve zla\u0148\u00e1kov).<br \/>\n<label style=\"float: left; margin: 1px 0px 1px 0px;\"><a data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-bGlndGhib3g=\" data-rl_title=\"\" data-rl_caption=\"\" href=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh2.png\" title=\"\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh2.png\" style=\"height:243px;\"\/><\/a><\/label><label style=\"float: right; margin: 1px 1px 1px 10px;\"><a data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-bGlndGhib3g=\" data-rl_title=\"\" data-rl_caption=\"\" href=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh3.png\" title=\"\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh3.png\" style=\"height:243px;\"\/><\/a><\/label>\n<\/p>\n<p>\u010cakalo n\u00e1s tu ve\u013ek\u00e9 prekvapenie. Nielen \u017ee sme chytili e\u0161te nejak\u00fd ten tie\u0148, ale Adam od toho transportu zaspal a n\u00e1m sa podarilo aj \u010do to poliez\u0165. Najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edm z\u00e1zrakom ale bola jasky\u0148a, ktor\u00e1 si dr\u017eala aj v t\u00fdch hor\u00fa\u010dav\u00e1ch pr\u00edjemn\u00fdch okolo 25 stup\u0148ov a v nej asi 20 ciest obtia\u017enosti od 3 do 9+. Tak predsa len to st\u00e1lo za to. Bilancia bola dobr\u00e1. Nieko\u013eko 8mi\u010diek na OS a plus aj \u010do to \u0165a\u017e\u0161ie. Z\u00e1ver patril ceste 7+ OS solo (aj ke\u010f pri barane by mi u\u017e bouldermatka nepomohla)<\/p>\n<h5>Pokus \u010d\u00edslo 2<\/h5>\n<p><label style=\"float: left; margin: 1px 10px 1px 0px;\"><a data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-bGlndGhib3g=\" data-rl_title=\"\" data-rl_caption=\"\" href=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh4.png\" title=\"\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh4.png\" style=\"width:210px; height:190px;\"\/><\/a><\/label>Zase teplo! E\u0161te \u017ee u\u017e m\u00e1me okukan\u00fd ten Arnstein. Katka si s rados\u0165ou op\u00e4\u0165 vybehne na Peilstein Hutte a ja nalo\u017een\u00fd a\u017e po krk sa vyd\u00e1m na prech\u00e1dzku za chladom Arnsteinhohle (tak sa vol\u00e1 jaskynn\u00fd sektor). Pou\u010den\u00fd z minula sme sa zbalili \u013eah\u0161ie a ko\u010d\u00edk sme nechali doma. Namiesto neho sme zobrali outdoorov\u00fa detsk\u00fa postielku. Vyrazili sme sk\u00f4r, tak\u017ee sme stihli aj tie\u0148 a v\u0161etci si akosi zvolili namiesto lezenia vodn\u00e9 \u0161porty, tak\u017ee sme tam  sami. Cie\u013e bol prin\u00fati\u0165 Katku po roku pauzy op\u00e4\u0165 za\u010da\u0165 cvaka\u0165 a pre m\u0148a vyliez\u0165 nejak\u00e9 \u0165a\u017e\u0161ie cesty na OS. Prv\u00e9 sa podarilo, no s t\u00fdmi \u0165a\u017ek\u00fdmi cestami som to asi prep\u00edskol. Nakoniec z toho bolo iba 9- na druh\u00fd pokus a nejak\u00e9 rozroben\u00e9 projekty.<br \/>\nNa z\u00e1ver sme pridali miestnu \u0161pecialitku \u2013 v\u00fdlez (alebo skorej vlez)  do jasky\u0148e v strope. Vrele m\u00f4\u017eeme t\u00fato raritu doporu\u010di\u0165 aj ke\u010f tej <label style=\"float: right; margin: 1px 1px 1px 10px;\"><a data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-bGlndGhib3g=\" data-rl_title=\"\" data-rl_caption=\"\" href=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh5.png\" title=\"\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh5.png\" style=\"width:215px;height:180px;\"\/><\/a><\/label><label style=\"float: right; margin: 1px 1px 1px 10px;\"><a data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-bGlndGhib3g=\" data-rl_title=\"\" data-rl_caption=\"\" href=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh6.png\" title=\"\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh6.png\" style=\"width:260px;height:180px;\"\/><\/a><\/label>3+ke by sa hodilo prida\u0165 2 stupne na obtia\u017enosti. Cestou k autu sme sa op\u00e4\u0165 rozdelili a Katka e\u0161te presk\u00famala alternat\u00edvnu pr\u00edstupov\u00fa cestu, ktor\u00e1 by bola pre m\u0148a s Adamom \u00faplne neschodn\u00e1, lebo viedla strm\u00fdmi serpent\u00ednami do dediny asi 300 v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metrov pod skalami. D\u00fafam, \u017ee sa \u010dosokro vr\u00e1time.<\/p>\n<h5>Pokus \u010d\u00edslo 3<\/h5>\n<p><label style=\"float: left; margin: 1px 10px 1px 0px;\"><a data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-bGlndGhib3g=\" data-rl_title=\"\" data-rl_caption=\"\" href=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh7.png\" title=\"\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh7.png\" style=\"height:300px;\"\/><\/a><\/label><label style=\"float: right; margin: 1px 1px 1px 10px;\"><a data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-bGlndGhib3g=\" data-rl_title=\"\" data-rl_caption=\"\" href=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh8.png\" title=\"\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh8.png\" style=\"height:300px;\"\/><\/a><\/label>Aj ke\u010f u\u017e na konci augusta u\u017e teplo nikto ne\u010dakal, predsa len pri\u0161lo. Teraz v tom m\u00e1me u\u017e \u00faplne jasno  a navy\u0161e sa n\u00e1m podar\u00ed vyladi\u0165 logistiku a vezieme si z Bratislavy aj nosi\u010da. Ten po tr\u00e9ningu v Tatr\u00e1ch r\u00e1d ponesie v\u0161etky veci a mne ostane na krku u\u017e len Adam.<br \/>\nKatka si m\u00f4\u017ee dlh\u0161ie zabeha\u0165 a my t\u00fdm p\u00e1dom stihneme pred jej pr\u00edchodom aj nejak\u00fa t\u00fa rozlezov\u00fa cestu. Tentokr\u00e1t tam bolo dos\u0165 plno no na\u0161tastie sa na\u0161e cesty v\u017edy uvo\u013enili ke\u010f bolo treba. Pe\u0165o flashol silov\u00fa 9-, ktor\u00fa sa mne nepodarilo minule prebi\u0165 na OS a potom sme sa zahryzli do stropu zvan\u00e9ho Desire (9). Zauj\u00edmav\u00fd boulder na za\u010diatku sa mi minule nepodarilo vymyslie\u0165 on teraz ide na prv\u00fd pokus. Neviem odkia\u013e som mal to\u013ek\u00fa vytrvalos\u0165, ale podarilo sa mi podr\u017ea\u0165 v\u0161etky ostr\u00e9 madl\u00e1 v strope a doliezol som a\u017e do zla\u0148\u00e1ku. Par\u00e1dny flash pokus dal aj Pe\u0165o, no ked\u017ee je o nie\u010do krat\u0161\u00ed, k\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00fd pre\u010dah bol nad jeho d\u013a\u017eku a tak pri\u0161la na rad sila a fix v 2 prstovej dierke v strope. Klob\u00fak dole. Na dokument\u00e1ciu pon\u00fakame aj video.<br \/>\n<label style=\"float: left; margin: 1px 10px 1px 0px;\"><iframe width=\"600\" height=\"425\"\nsrc=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/aLN8l46XFCo?autoplay=0\"><\/iframe><\/label>Nane\u0161tastie cesta ostala restom, tak ako kr\u00e1tka silov\u00e1 bouldrova\u010dka vo ved\u013eaj\u0161ej ceste v mojom podan\u00ed. Bola asi zakliata, lebo najprv sa n\u00e1m hore v barane zasekla nerozviazan\u00e1 osmi\u010dka na lane a potom pri prekvapivom cvaknut\u00ed posledn\u00e9ho istenia som akosi zazm\u00e4tkoval a po vypusten\u00ed n\u00f4h som sa u\u017e nedok\u00e1zal vr\u00e1ti\u0165 sp\u00e4\u0165 k \u017eiadnym stupom. No ni\u010d to, aspo\u0148 sa m\u00f4\u017eeme op\u00e4\u0165 vr\u00e1ti\u0165 na toto kr\u00e1sne a netradi\u010dn\u00e9 miesto. Pokus \u010d\u00edslo 4 bude h\u00e1dam prelezov\u00fd.<br \/>\n<label style=\"float: right; margin: 1px 0px 1px 10px;\"><a data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-bGlndGhib3g=\" data-rl_title=\"\" data-rl_caption=\"\" href=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh10.png\" title=\"\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh10.png\" style=\"height:350px;\"\/><\/a><\/label><label style=\"float: right; margin: 1px 0px 1px 10px;\"><a data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-bGlndGhib3g=\" data-rl_title=\"\" data-rl_caption=\"\" href=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh9.png\" title=\"\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh9.png\" style=\"height:350px;\"\/><\/a><\/label>Arnstein sa nach\u00e1dza asi 110 km od Bratislavy a d\u00e1 sa tam dosta\u0165 asi za hodinu + 20 min\u00fat ch\u00f4dze lesom. Nach\u00e1dza sa tu 132 (2 a\u017e 10 UIAA) ciest a 45 bouldrov. Liez\u0165 sa d\u00e1 v\u010faka jaskyni aj za da\u017eda a aj v najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edch hor\u00fa\u010dav\u00e1ch. Istenia s\u00fa velmi hust\u00e9 a aj ke\u010f sa kde tu n\u00e1jde star\u00fd plie\u0161ok, preva\u017ene je nov\u00e9. Najlep\u0161\u00ed pr\u00edstup je z parkoviska pri ceste do dediny Holzschlag.<label style=\"float: left; margin: 1px 15px 1px 0px;\"><a data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-bGlndGhib3g=\" data-rl_title=\"\" data-rl_caption=\"\" href=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh11.png\" title=\"\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh11.png\" width=\"370\"\/><\/a><\/label><label style=\"float: right; margin: 1px 10px 1px 0px;\"><a data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-bGlndGhib3g=\" data-rl_title=\"\" data-rl_caption=\"\" href=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh12.png\" title=\"\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/images\/clanky\/rakusko\/uh12.png\" width=\"370\"\/><\/a><\/label>\n<\/p>\n<p>\nAutor: Mi\u0161o Uherek<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Ke\u010f som asi pred rokom a pol zav\u00edtal prv\u00fdkr\u00e1t (zatia\u013e aj posledn\u00fd) do rak\u00faskeho Semmeringu ala Adlidzgraben-u a nesk\u00f4r aj Hohkogel-u na Hohe Wand-e, bol som o\u010daren\u00fd mno\u017estvom ciest a \u0161pecifikami v\u00e1penca. To ma motivovalo ku k\u00fape sprievodcu okolia Viedne \u2013 Keltenkalk 3 (r\u00e1d po\u017ei\u010diam). Toto rozhodnutie v\u00fdrazne ovplyvnilo moje lezeck\u00e9 po\u010diny za posledn\u00fd rok. &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/?p=691\" class=\"more-link\">Pokra\u010dova\u0165 na <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Arnstein na tretiu<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-691","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-novinky"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/691","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=691"}],"version-history":[{"count":81,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/691\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":829,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/691\/revisions\/829"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=691"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=691"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=691"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}