{"id":896,"date":"2016-01-02T21:00:09","date_gmt":"2016-01-02T19:00:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/?p=896"},"modified":"2016-01-02T22:47:45","modified_gmt":"2016-01-02T20:47:45","slug":"lezecke-denniky-2-horor-v-girone-oktober-2015","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/?p=896","title":{"rendered":"Lezeck\u00e9 denn\u00edky 2 &#8211; Horor v Girone (Okt\u00f3ber 2015)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Za\u010diatkom okt\u00f3bra sa \u00cdrska perinbaba akosi pom\u00fdlila a spravila na jeden v\u00edked pekn\u00e9 po\u010dasie. Ke\u010f\u017ee do pl\u00e1novan\u00e9ho v\u00fdletu do Talianska zost\u00e1vali e\u0161te dva t\u00fd\u017edne presved\u010dil so Ivana Tatransk\u00e9ho (prez\u00fdvka) &#8211; teda m\u00f4jho \u00cdrskeho spolulezca, \u017ee sa p\u00f4jdeme pozrie\u0165 na Fair Head. S Ivanom sme dovtedy z tradi\u010dn\u00e9ho lezenia dali len p\u00e1rk kr\u00e1t Dalkey a vybehli sme pekn\u00fa \u0161tvor\u013a\u017ekov\u00fa Prelude Nightmare za VS-4c v Glendalough. Tento v\u00fdlet mal by\u0165 Ivanove zasv\u00e4tenie do \u0165ahania tradi\u010dn\u00fdch ciest.<br \/>\nV piatok ve\u010der pivo v Pifku ale v Sobotu r\u00e1no sme u\u017e o siedmej vyrazili na Smr\u0165\u00e1kovi smer BallyCastle (Severn\u00e9 \u00cdrsko). V\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina cesty z Dublinu je po dia\u013enici M1 a\u017e za Belfast a po nieko\u013ek\u00fdch desiatkach m\u00ed\u013e sme v Ballycastle odbo\u010dovali smerom na Murlough Bay a odtia\u013e do do\u013eava na Seanovu farmu (odbo\u010dka Fair Head).<br \/>\nNa farme sa d\u00e1 auto zaparkova\u0165 na de\u0148 za mysl\u00edm 3-4 britsk\u00e9 libry. Nie je to nijako kontrolovan\u00e9, ale cena je minim\u00e1lna a v\u010faka dobr\u00e9mu vz\u0165ahu lezcov s farm\u00e1rom Seanom je mo\u017en\u00e9 slobodne prejs\u0165 cez jeho farmu a\u017e nad oblas\u0165. Lezenie na Fair Heade za\u010d\u00edna v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou 100m zla\u0148\u00e1kom z vo\u013ene pohoden\u00e9ho \u0161utra. My sme tak urobili v sektore Rathlin Wall.<br \/>\n<label style=\"float: left; margin: 1px 10px 1px 0px;\"><a href=\"\/images\/clanky\/HororVGirone\/01.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-cHJldHR5UGhvdG9bZ2FsbGVyeS1Ib3JvclZHaXJvbmVd\" data-rl_title=\"\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/images\/clanky\/HororVGirone\/01.jpg\" style=\"width:250px\" alt=\"niekde v Roaring Meg\"><\/a><br \/>niekde v Roaring Meg<\/label>Za\u010dali sme z vesela cestou ktor\u00fa som u\u017e d\u00e1vnej\u0161ie liezol &#8211; Roaring Meg (VS 5a,4b,4a) 100m. Prv\u00fa d\u013a\u017eku \u0165ah\u00e1l ja ke\u010f\u017ee je tro\u0161ku n\u00e1ro\u010dnej\u0161ia, ale potom som pustil Ivana do zakladania do \u010fal\u0161\u00edch dvoch a v podstate sa tade pre\u0161iel bez v\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edch probl\u00e9mov. Do cesty sme si zobrali vysiela\u010dky a bolo ve\u013emi pr\u00edjemn\u00e9 nemusie\u0165 hul\u00e1ka\u0165 na spolulezca, ke\u010f\u017ee hlas sa nad morom nem\u00e1 odkia\u013e odrazi\u0165.<br \/>\nPo dolezen\u00ed sme hore chv\u00ed\u013eu kecali s miestnym lezcom, ktor\u00fd pr\u00e1ve vys\u00f3loval Gironu a tak sme pou\u017eili jeho lano na zlanenie dole do cesty. Girona je pekn\u00e1 *** dvojd\u013a\u017ekov\u00e1 cesta VS(4c, 4c) 47m so \u0161tandom pri ve\u013ekom odsadenom skalnom bloku. Cesty v tejto oblasti s\u00fa dos\u0165 na husto a prepletaj\u00fa sa (Chieftain a Taoiseach), tak\u017ee navig\u00e1cia je pomerne zlo\u017eit\u00e1. Odpor\u00fa\u010dam \u00eds\u0165 si najpr cestu dobre napozera\u0165 z \u00fatesu.<br \/>\n<label style=\"float: right; margin: 1px 0px 1px 10px;\"><a href=\"\/images\/clanky\/HororVGirone\/04.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-cHJldHR5UGhvdG9bZ2FsbGVyeS1Ib3JvclZHaXJvbmVd\" data-rl_title=\"\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/images\/clanky\/HororVGirone\/04.jpg\" style=\"width:200px\" alt=\"Sektor Rathlin Wall\"><\/a><br \/>Sektor Rathlin Wall<\/label>Za\u010dal som op\u00e4\u0165 ja nako\u013eko som v Girone u\u017e bol. Po celkom slu\u0161nej zabera\u010dke \u0161p\u00e1rou som doliezol a spravil \u0161tand z 3 kusov. Dva ve\u013ek\u00e9 friendy a hexcenter za odchl\u00edpnut\u00fdm blokom. Tutovka. Sedenie na skalnej kocke pod \u0161tandom a lano v \u0161p\u00e1re pod nohami. Ivan v pohode doliezol a r\u00fdchlo sme preh\u00e1dzali materi\u00e1l aby mohol pokra\u010dova\u0165. Prv\u00e1 chyba bola, \u017ee namiesto druhej d\u013a\u017eky Girony sa pustil viac vpravo (pod\u013ea m\u0148a druh\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka Chieftaina). Po asi piatich metroch mu prdli nohy a prist\u00e1l pri mne na skalnej kocke. Istiacou rukou som ho e\u0161te zachytil aby nepadol do \u0161tandu.<br \/>\nDruh\u00e1 chyba &#8211; v\u017edy si treba zalo\u017ei\u0165 \u010d\u00edm skorej prv\u00e9 istenie. Mali sme tak\u00fd pocit, \u017ee n\u00e1m asi Fair Head chce nie\u010do nazna\u010di\u0165. Ale v pohode. Povedal som Ivanovi, \u017ee ke\u010f chce m\u00f4\u017eeme to zbali\u0165 a vybehn\u00fat cez Ballycastle Descent Gully sp\u00e4\u0165 k veciam. On sa ale nedal odradi\u0165 (re\u0161pekt) a sk\u00fasil to e\u0161te raz. Tentokr\u00e1t zalo\u017eil istenie ove\u013ea sk\u00f4r a \u010dastej\u0161ie. Potom ale pri\u0161iel crux druhej d\u013a\u017eky a \u010do bolo ove\u013ea hor\u0161ie r\u00fdchlo sa zotmelo. Pod previsom, kde si norm\u00e1lne treba n\u00e1js\u0165 dobr\u00e9 nohy bolo v\u010faka tme o dos\u0165 \u0165a\u017e\u0161ie. Sp\u00fdtal som sa smerom nahor \u201cm\u00e1\u0161 dobre zalo\u017een\u00e9?\u201d. Ivan z hora \u201chej m\u00e1m tu tak\u00fd pofid\u00e9rny \u010dok\u201d. Po nieko\u013ek\u00fdch pokusoch prebi\u0165 sme sa zhodli, \u017ee v tme to nep\u00f4jde a \u017ee p\u00f4jdeme dole. Chyba \u010d\u00edslo tri &#8211; v\u017edy si ber \u010delovku.<br \/>\nPred spusten\u00edm som e\u0161te povedal Ivanovi nech si d\u00e1 e\u0161te jeden \u010dok. Pre istotu ke\u010f ten prv\u00fd nebol moc dobr\u00fd. O chv\u00ed\u013eu som ho sp\u00fa\u0161\u0165al na jednom lane a druh\u00e9 \u010do mal cvaknut\u00e9 pod sebou (asi 6m) som doberal.<br \/>\nZrazu. Cink \u2026 Cink \u2026 \u201ckurv\u00e1\u00e1\u00e1\u201d \u2026 nie\u010do sa odrazilo o m\u00f4j chrb\u00e1t a letelo \u010falej<br \/>\n\u2026<br \/>\nHlas v hlave: \u201cTak tie horn\u00e9 dva \u010doky s\u00fa v riti, kde je \u010fal\u0161ie istenie a vydr\u017e\u00ed to? \u010co tam vlastne dal? \u010co ke\u010f nie? \u2026 Dobre je ten \u0161tand spraven\u00fd?\u201d<br \/>\n&#8230;.<br \/>\n<label style=\"float: left; margin: 1px 10px 1px 0px;\"><a href=\"\/images\/clanky\/HororVGirone\/02.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-cHJldHR5UGhvdG9bZ2FsbGVyeS1Ib3JvclZHaXJvbmVd\" data-rl_title=\"\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/images\/clanky\/HororVGirone\/02.jpg\" style=\"width:200px\" alt=\"Ivan s \u010dokom 7 a lanom\"><\/a><br \/>Ivan s \u010dokom 7 a lanom<\/label>\u010eal\u0161\u00ed \u010dok (sedmi\u010dka) v\u010fakabohu podr\u017eal a tak som mohol zachyti\u0165 jeho p\u00e1d na druhom prameni. Pozrel som dole. Ivan asi 6 metrov podo m\u0148ou. Na\u0161\u0165astie v poriadku, len trochu o\u0161kret\u00fd, dobral som ho hore do \u0161tandu.<br \/>\nStiahli sme lano a prame\u0148 ktor\u00fd chytil p\u00e1d seknut\u00fd asi 10 metrov od konca. Nejako sme zlanili dole pod Gironu za asistencie super vysiela\u010diek, ktor\u00e9 maj\u00fa v sebe jednoduch\u00fa ledku sme sa vy\u0161kriabali hore k veciam v postate u\u017e za \u00faplnej tmy. Potom e\u0161te n\u00e1cvik so statikou. Trafi\u0165 sa do spr\u00e1vneho k\u00fata. Zlanil som dole a podarilo sa mi vybra\u0165 v\u0161etko a\u017e na jeden \u010dok &#8211; ten ktor\u00fd zachytil p\u00e1d. Tak som pekne kr\u00e1sne op\u00e4\u0165 vy\u0161iel hore a dal si e\u0161te jeden spust tentokr\u00e1t vo v\u00fdbave s kame\u0148om na vytl\u010denie. Na\u0161\u0165astie spusty u\u017e boli s \u010delovkou a v norm\u00e1lnych tenisk\u00e1ch.<br \/>\nPo zbalen\u00ed vec\u00ed sme do\u0161li k autu mysl\u00edm o pol jeden\u00e1stej a o jeden\u00e1stej u\u017e sme v Murlough Bay (pracovn\u00fd n\u00e1zov &#8211; koniec sveta) stavali stan a varili ve\u010deru.<br \/>\n<label style=\"float: right; margin: 1px 0px 1px 10px;\"><a href=\"\/images\/clanky\/HororVGirone\/03.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-cHJldHR5UGhvdG9bZ2FsbGVyeS1Ib3JvclZHaXJvbmVd\" data-rl_title=\"\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/images\/clanky\/HororVGirone\/03.jpg\" style=\"width:250px\" alt=\"dolezov\u00fd \u0161tand na FairHeade\"><\/a><br \/>dolezov\u00fd \u0161tand na FairHeade<\/label>Na \u010fal\u0161\u00ed de\u0148 sme sa vr\u00e1tili do rovnak\u00e9ho sektora a dali sme si kombin\u00e1ciu Chieftaina a Taosieach (VS-4b). Ivan \u0165ahal prv\u00fa d\u013a\u017eku (op\u00e4\u0165 re\u0161pekt) a ja som potom i\u0161iel druh\u00fa. Asi o tretej sme si povedali, \u017ee sa ideme namiesto lezenia e\u0161te poprech\u00e1dza\u0165 popri \u00fatese a pozrie\u0165 si ostatn\u00e9 cesty. Pozreli sme si aj Gironu z druhej strany a mysl\u00edm, \u017ee sa tam vr\u00e1time.<br \/>\n<label style=\"float: left; margin: 1px 10px 1px 0px;\"><a href=\"\/images\/clanky\/HororVGirone\/05.jpg\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-cHJldHR5UGhvdG9bZ2FsbGVyeS1Ib3JvclZHaXJvbmVd\" data-rl_title=\"\" data-rl_caption=\"\" title=\"\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/images\/clanky\/HororVGirone\/05.jpg\" style=\"width:250px\" alt=\"See you again Fair Head\"><\/a><br \/>See you again Fair Head<\/label>Cestou sp\u00e4\u0165 do Dublinu sme sa zhodli, \u017ee Fair Head n\u00e1m dal zase cez pysk a \u017ee asi ho treba bra\u0165 viac s re\u0161pektom lebo to neni preglejka. Ke\u010f\u017ee sme to obaja v zdrav\u00ed pre\u017eili vyhl\u00e1sili sme v\u00edkend za \u00faspech a ne\u00faspech za v\u00fdzvu. <\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/wiki.climbing.ie\/index.php\/Fairhead\" target=\"_blank\">Linka na sprievodcu<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Autor: A\u010fo<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Za\u010diatkom okt\u00f3bra sa \u00cdrska perinbaba akosi pom\u00fdlila a spravila na jeden v\u00edked pekn\u00e9 po\u010dasie. Ke\u010f\u017ee do pl\u00e1novan\u00e9ho v\u00fdletu do Talianska zost\u00e1vali e\u0161te dva t\u00fd\u017edne presved\u010dil so Ivana Tatransk\u00e9ho (prez\u00fdvka) &#8211; teda m\u00f4jho \u00cdrskeho spolulezca, \u017ee sa p\u00f4jdeme pozrie\u0165 na Fair Head. S Ivanom sme dovtedy z tradi\u010dn\u00e9ho lezenia dali len p\u00e1rk kr\u00e1t Dalkey a vybehli &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/?p=896\" class=\"more-link\">Pokra\u010dova\u0165 na <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Lezeck\u00e9 denn\u00edky 2 &#8211; Horor v Girone (Okt\u00f3ber 2015)<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-896","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-novinky"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/896","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=896"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/896\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":907,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/896\/revisions\/907"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=896"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=896"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.carpathianclimb.sk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=896"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}